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October 5, 2009
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Comments: 12
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Camera Data

Canon
Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT
1/125 second
F/5.6
21 mm
400
Oct 5, 2009, 1:24:51 PM
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:iconphydeau:
I'm not keeping this up. I'm hoping some photographers can give me advice about how to avoid or fix the haze at the top of the tree line. Every time I try taking pictures of these trees, it ends up looking like the shy is 10 times brighter than it actually is. And I am using a UV filter.


If you got here by a link, there's now a much better version here: [link]
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:iconneswanjeh:
!neswanjeh Oct 7, 2009
polarizers will work best at 90 degrees of the sun ... so it will limit your composition for the photo ... i suggest trying split density filters ...

reading the comments before mine .... i see you already got some help on the metering .... however .... were you shooting at fully auto ? this may explain the high iso ... these camera sets the iso automatically i guess ...
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:iconphydeau:
`phydeau Oct 7, 2009  Hobbyist Photographer
It was manual, but I didn't check the ISO. I don't know why it was set to 400. Even indoors, I try not to go above 200 if I don't have to, and I haven't shot indoors in months. I had just assumed it was set at 100.
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:iconsimplistic-illusion:
!Simplistic-Illusion Oct 6, 2009
I think the other's nailed it, I just second it. It's trial and error sometimes :)
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:iconselizabeth:
~selizabeth Oct 5, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
I know someone else suggested a polarizing filter - are you sure the one you are using is made for digital cameras? Older polarizing filters won't work, what you need is a circular one. Also be sure to meter for the sky - right now just about everything is set for way to bright of an exposure.

Alternatively take two exposures - one for the trees, another for the sky, then layer them in photoshop and mask accordingly.
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:iconphydeau:
`phydeau Oct 5, 2009  Hobbyist Photographer
I'll look into polarizing filters. Thanks! I did not realize there was a difference for digital.

For still-lifes, I would absolutely go for multiple exposure. In fact, if it was just trees, I'd probably go for HDR. The problem is that I'm worried about shooting a live model under similar conditions.

I think I'll go back tomorrow and play with apertures.
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:iconselizabeth:
~selizabeth Oct 5, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
yup, there is. though I should clarify - the polarizing filter I use that's helped me get a number of shots in my gallery ( [link] [link] [link] [link] [link] ) is actually old, BUT it's a circular filter, meaning it's got a part that attaches to the lens like a normal filter, then a second piece that actually spins so you can angle it according to where the sun is in relation to you.

for a live model I can see the problems - with that you'd probably want to get a flash so that you can meter for the sky then fill in the model with the extra light to get exposed properly as well.
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:iconfemailleturtle:
*FeMailleTurtle Oct 5, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
Also, for the time of day you are shooting, your ISO is way high. You might try closing the aperture too - 5.6 is probably as large as that lens goes. Try f/10 or higher.
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:iconphydeau:
`phydeau Oct 5, 2009  Hobbyist Photographer
Holy crap. How did it get to 400? That would explain the grain problem. ;P
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:iconfemailleturtle:
*FeMailleTurtle Oct 5, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
Fix it in lightroom? There's an awesome adjustment brush you can use.

As far as an in-camera fix, maybe try metering off the sky instead of the trees? Try a polarizing filter maybe?

I could be way off, but those are the things I would try first.
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:iconphydeau:
`phydeau Oct 5, 2009  Hobbyist Photographer
I tried the polarizing filter, but it didn't seem to have any effect on an overcast sky. I also tried a much faster shutter speed, but when I tried to lighten it in PS, the haze came up with it as well.

I'll have to check out lightroom.
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